After Table Mountain, the vibrant, candy-colored houses of Bo-Kaap have become one of Cape Town’s most recognizable sights, drawing tourists and filling Instagram feeds. However, many residents of this historic Muslim neighborhood are growing frustrated with the influx of visitors. Tour buses clog narrow streets, tourists block roads for photos, and outside businesses catering to tourism are multiplying, fueling concerns over gentrification.
Cape Town’s popularity is rising among digital nomads and wealthy Europeans seeking winter getaways, with increasing tourist numbers—though they have not yet surpassed pre-pandemic levels. In December, over 160,000 foreign visitors arrived at the city’s airport, a 3.7% increase from 2023.
In November, residents staged a protest outside the Bo-Kaap Museum, objecting to excessive tourism with signs reading, “No buses in Bo-Kaap” and “Stop exploiting Bo-Kaap.” Osman Shaboodien, chair of the Bo-Kaap Civic and Ratepayers Association, described tourism as a “double-edged sword,” bringing in some money but causing more disruption. He highlighted three major issues: overcrowding, the unsuitability of the area’s narrow streets for large buses, and a lack of parking.
Bo-Kaap, meaning “above the Cape” in Afrikaans, is one of Cape Town’s oldest residential areas, dating back to the 1760s. Its diverse history includes descendants of enslaved Muslims brought by Dutch colonists from Indonesia and Malaysia—later known as Cape Malays—who lived alongside European, African, and Asian immigrants. Unlike nearby District Six, Bo-Kaap narrowly avoided destruction under apartheid, but it was designated a Cape Malay-only area in 1957, leading to the forced eviction of other residents.
Today, the neighborhood has seven mosques within a small 2km stretch, with additional ones just beyond its borders. Many homes display pro-Palestine murals, reflecting residents’ cultural and political identity. One concern is that new, wealthier residents may file noise complaints against the traditional calls to prayer, while new businesses might introduce alcohol sales.
Tour guide and local resident Zaki Harris wants authorities to ensure that Bo-Kaap’s history is properly conveyed by educating outside guides and creating more opportunities for locals in the tourism sector. “If locals don’t participate in the tourism economy, they’re out,” said Harris, who leads the Bo-Kaap Tourism Association.
City officials say they provide tourism training for residents, but concerns remain about developments like a proposed six-story apartment building near the historic Auwal Mosque, South Africa’s first mosque. The developer, Flyt Property Investment, revised its original nine-story plan after community consultations, but residents argue the process feels like a mere formality. Deputy Mayor Eddie Andrews acknowledged the community’s concerns but emphasized that all proposals must align with municipal and heritage guidelines.
Despite challenges, some locals have adapted. Nurahn Essop runs a cafe and Cape Malay cooking classes with her mother in their family’s plum-colored home. While tourism has helped sustain them financially, she has moved to a more affordable area, leaving her childhood neighborhood behind. She worries about Bo-Kaap’s future once older generations pass on. “Bo-Kaap is more than just the pretty houses—it’s about the people and the history.”
