Mandalay: Myanmar ‘city of gold’ now under rubble

Mandalay, once celebrated as the “city of gold” for its glittering pagodas and Buddhist monuments, is now overshadowed by the stench of death. Since a 7.7 magnitude earthquake struck near the former royal capital last Friday, the overwhelming number of casualties has forced residents to cremate bodies in stacks, according to eyewitnesses.

The death toll has exceeded 2,700, with 4,521 injured and hundreds still missing, Myanmar’s military chief confirmed. As search and rescue operations continue, these numbers are expected to rise. Survivors in the country’s second-largest city are struggling with dwindling food and water supplies, while many spend sleepless nights wandering the streets in distress.

One resident, identified only as J, lost her aunt in the quake. “Her body was only retrieved from the rubble two days later, on March 30,” said the 23-year-old student. The already fragile infrastructure, coupled with ongoing civil conflicts, has severely hampered relief efforts. The military, known for downplaying disasters, has yet to provide a clear picture of the devastation.

J, who resides in Mandalay’s Mahaaungmyay district, described the emotional toll, saying she felt “dizzy from sleep deprivation.” Many residents, fearing aftershocks, are living in makeshift tents or simply out in the open. “I’ve seen people, myself included, crouching and crying in the streets,” she said.

Despite the grim situation, there have been some rescues. The fire department reported saving 403 people in Mandalay over the past four days while recovering 259 bodies. However, actual casualty numbers are believed to be much higher than official figures.

In a televised address, military leader Min Aung Hlaing acknowledged the possibility of the death toll exceeding 3,000. Meanwhile, the U.S. Geological Survey estimated the fatalities could surpass 10,000, given the quake’s intensity and location.

Children have been particularly traumatized by the disaster. A local pastor recounted how his eight-year-old son had been breaking down in tears after witnessing his neighborhood turn to rubble. The boy, who was upstairs when the quake hit, was partially buried under falling debris before being rescued by his mother.

In Pyigyitagon, one of Mandalay’s hardest-hit areas, residents have been witnessing bodies being pulled from collapsed buildings. “It’s heartbreaking,” said Ruate, a local resident. “Myanmar has suffered so much—natural disasters, war, economic collapse. People are exhausted. We feel hopeless.”

A monk living near the devastated Sky Villa condominium, which was reduced from 12 stories to six, confirmed that while some survivors were rescued, only bodies had been recovered in the past 24 hours. “There are still many more inside—perhaps over a hundred,” he said.

With crematoriums overwhelmed and authorities running out of body bags, basic supplies like food and drinking water are also dwindling. Across Mandalay, shattered pagodas and golden spires now line the streets, a grim reminder of the city’s past glory. Once a hub for gold leaf production and tourism, Mandalay has suffered increasing poverty, mirroring Myanmar’s broader economic decline.

The quake’s devastation extended to Thailand and China, but Myanmar, already ravaged by civil war and a military-led economic crisis, has suffered the worst. The country held a minute of silence on Tuesday as part of a week of mourning. The junta ordered flags to be lowered and media broadcasts halted in tribute to the victims.

Even before the disaster, over 3.5 million people had been displaced internally. Thousands more, particularly young people, have fled abroad to escape forced military conscription, leaving fewer hands to assist in rescue and recovery efforts.

Countries like Russia and China, which support Myanmar’s military regime, have sent aid and rescue teams. However, relief efforts remain slow, J noted. “Rescue workers have been working non-stop for days, and they’re exhausted. But given the scale of destruction, the resources here are simply not enough to manage the crisis efficiently,” she said.