Familia Torres, a venerable name in European winemaking with roots dating back to 1870, has issued a stark warning about the future of its winery in Catalonia. The family-owned winery, renowned for its commitment to quality and sustainability, is grappling with the escalating impacts of climate change, which threaten the viability of traditional viticulture in the region.
Miguel Torres, the 83-year-old president of Familia Torres, expressed deep concern over the changing climate conditions.“I don’t know how long we can stay here making good wines, maybe 20 or 30 years,” he stated. “Climate change is changing all the circumstances.” The Penedès region, once ideal for grape cultivation, is experiencing rising temperatures and prolonged droughts, leading to earlier harvests and reduced yields. The 2023 harvest was particularly devastating, marking the worst year on record for the winery.
In response to these challenges, Familia Torres is implementing a multifaceted strategy to adapt and mitigate the effects of climate change. The winery is investing in irrigation systems in both Spain and California to counteract water scarcity. Additionally, it is exploring higher altitude vineyards in the Pyrenees, with new plantings in areas like Tremp and Benabarre, which are currently too cold but may become suitable as global temperatures rise.
Beyond geographical adjustments, Familia Torres is pioneering sustainable practices to reduce its environmental footprint.The winery has embraced regenerative agriculture, converting over 500 hectares of organic vineyards to this model. This approach enhances soil health, increases biodiversity, and improves water retention, making vineyards more resilient to climate extremes. Notably, a 1% increase in soil organic matter can enable the land to retain an additional 240,000 liters of water per hectare annually.
Water conservation is another critical focus. Since 2016, Familia Torres has operated a water regeneration plant at its Pacs del Penedès winery, reusing 45% of its process water for irrigation, cleaning, and cooling. Rainwater harvesting initiatives further supplement these efforts, reducing reliance on municipal and underground water sources.
The winery’s commitment to sustainability extends to its carbon footprint. Through measures like renewable energy adoption, lighter bottle designs, and carbon capture from fermentation, Familia Torres has achieved a 37% reduction in CO₂ emissions per bottle from 2008 to 2023. The goal is a 60% reduction by 2030 and net-zero emissions by 2040.
Familia Torres is also reviving ancient grape varieties, such as Forcada and Pirene, which are more adaptable to warmer climates. These efforts not only preserve viticultural heritage but also offer potential solutions for maintaining wine quality amid changing environmental conditions.
Economic pressures compound the challenges. Increased UK import duties and packaging taxes have led to a 10% decline in exports to the UK. To mitigate costs, the winery is considering bottling some wines in the UK.
Despite these adversities, Familia Torres remains steadfast in its mission. Allocating 11% of its profits to climate adaptation and mitigation, the winery exemplifies proactive leadership in the face of global environmental challenges. As Miguel Torres aptly notes, combating climate change is essential for the survival of the wine trade.