France has temporarily relaxed some of its strict traditional cheese-making regulations after an intense drought and repeated heatwaves severely damaged grazing land across the country, threatening milk production and the livelihoods of dairy farmers. The temporary measures will allow producers of some of the country’s most renowned cheeses to alter livestock feeding practices as pastures have become too dry to provide sufficient grass.
The government has approved temporary changes for producers of Comté, Beaufort and Abondance, all of which are protected under France’s “appellation d’origine protégée” (AOP) designation. The certification guarantees that products are made according to specific traditional methods and within designated geographical areas, including strict requirements concerning where animals graze and what they are fed.
The decision comes after exceptionally dry conditions left large areas of normally green pasture yellow, bare and unsuitable for grazing. Authorities said the drought affected around 95% of mainland France in July, creating serious difficulties for farmers who depend on natural grasslands to feed their cattle.
Under the temporary relaxation, producers of the affected cheeses will be permitted to supplement their animals’ diets with additional fodder and grain sourced from outside their traditional grazing areas. The measure is intended to prevent further declines in milk production while allowing cheesemakers to continue operating despite the unprecedented shortage of pasture.
Comté, produced from raw cow’s milk in the Jura mountains, is among the country’s most important traditional cheeses. More than 62,000 tonnes were produced last year, making it France’s best-selling traditional cheese. Beaufort and Abondance are similarly associated with cattle farming in the Alpine region, where drought has severely affected the grasslands on which the animals depend.
The National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO), which oversees France’s traditional food-production standards, has indicated that temporary exemptions could also be extended to producers of several other well-known cheeses. These may include Reblochon, Cantal, Bleu d’Auvergne and Fourme d’Ambert. The agency has described the current drought as historic.
The crisis is already having a visible impact on small-scale dairy farms. In Normandy, a producer of Neufchâtel cheese reported a sharp fall in milk yields because cattle were struggling to find adequate grass. The farm, which normally produces between 600 and 700 heart-shaped cheeses a day during this period, has seen production fall to roughly 400 to 450.
Farmers in other traditional cheese-producing regions have also reported serious disruptions. Around 70% of Salers cheese producers reportedly had to suspend production during the summer because of drought conditions. Producers of Roquefort have also sought temporary changes to traditional grazing requirements after pastures used for sheep were badly affected by the extreme weather.
Official agricultural data has highlighted the scale of the problem. The French agriculture ministry said growth on permanent grasslands measured in August was around one-third below the average recorded between 1989 and 2018. The ministry has also described the availability of fodder as severely deteriorated across almost all regions.
The impact of the extreme weather is not limited to the dairy industry. France’s potato sector is forecasting a significant decline in production, with farmers expecting this year’s crop to fall by about 23% following successive heatwaves and exceptionally low rainfall. In the northern Hauts-de-France region, farmers have reported that potatoes are considerably smaller than usual, raising concerns for factories that rely on them to produce chips, crisps and processed foods.
Apple growers and cider producers are also worried about reduced yields, while wine producers have begun harvesting grapes earlier than usual in several areas. The early harvest has raised questions about both the quantity and quality of this year’s wine production.
Agriculture Minister Annie Genevard is expected to hold discussions with local authorities next week before announcing emergency assistance for farmers affected by the drought. The situation has added to growing concerns over the ability of traditional agricultural systems to withstand increasingly frequent and severe heatwaves and droughts.
For France, the crisis carries significance beyond agriculture. Traditional cheeses are deeply linked to the country’s cultural identity, rural economies and centuries-old farming practices. The temporary relaxation of production rules therefore reflects the difficult balance authorities face between preserving traditional methods and helping farmers survive increasingly challenging climatic conditions.
