Nepal is considering significant changes to its Mount Everest climbing permit system, aiming to improve safety and alleviate overcrowding on the world’s highest peak. A new draft law, currently under review in the National Assembly, proposes that climbers must have previously ascended at least one of Nepal’s 7,000-meter peaks to qualify for an Everest permit. This measure seeks to ensure that only experienced mountaineers undertake the perilous ascent, particularly through the “death zone” near the summit, where oxygen levels are critically low.
The proposed legislation also mandates that all expedition leaders and mountain guides be Nepali citizens. This requirement aims to bolster local employment and ensure that guides possess intimate knowledge of the terrain and conditions. However, this aspect of the proposal has faced criticism from international expedition operators. They argue that the restriction could limit access to qualified guides and suggest that experience on other high-altitude peaks, such as Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, or Denali, should also be considered valid preparation for Everest climbs.
The push for these regulatory changes comes in response to concerns over overcrowding and safety on Mount Everest. In 2023, Nepal issued 478 Everest permits, resulting in at least 12 deaths and five missing climbers. The following year saw eight fatalities. Critics contend that the influx of climbers, many lacking sufficient experience, contributes to dangerous congestion, particularly in the critical “death zone.”
Currently, Nepal has over 400 peaks open to expeditions, with 74 exceeding 7,000 meters. However, only a few of these peaks are popular among climbers. The new regulations aim to streamline access to Everest, ensuring that climbers are adequately prepared for the challenges of high-altitude mountaineering.
The draft law has been registered in the National Assembly, where the ruling alliance holds a majority, increasing the likelihood of its passage. If enacted, these changes could significantly alter the landscape of mountaineering in Nepal, emphasizing safety and experience over accessibility.
As the climbing community awaits further developments, the proposed regulations highlight Nepal’s commitment to balancing tourism-driven revenue with the preservation of its natural heritage and the safety of those who seek to conquer its towering peaks.
