While much of Italy slows down and slips into hibernation in February, Turin follows a very different rhythm. Nestled at the foot of the Italian Alps, the former ducal capital uses the coldest month of the year to showcase its most deeply rooted traditions, transforming winter into a season of celebration, food and ritual rather than retreat.
For residents and visitors alike, February in Turin quickly fills with events that are as social as they are seasonal. Carnival celebrations spill into neighbourhood streets, chocolate takes over the city’s grand squares, and vermouth anchors long aperitivo rituals in historic cafés and bars. Far from being a quiet off-season, late winter offers one of the clearest windows into everyday life in the Piedmontese capital.
The month begins with Carnival, which runs roughly from the start of February until mid-month. Across the city, parades, costumed figures and street performances animate markets and public spaces. One of the most evocative settings is the Balôn antiques market in Piazza Borgo Dora, where stalls of vintage furniture, prints and curios share space with Carnival masks and historical re-enactments. Characters from ancient Roman times to the Savoy era appear among the crowds, including the Rusnenta, the traditional Carnival figure of Borgo Dora whose name, meaning “the ragged woman” in local dialect, reflects the area’s long association with second-hand goods.
Carnival pastries are an essential part of the experience. Bakeries fill their windows with bugie, thin and crisp fried pastries dusted generously with icing sugar, which locals snack on while wandering between market stalls and stopping to watch impromptu brass band performances. Families often gravitate towards Parco della Pellerina, home to Italy’s largest Carnival funfair, while the celebrations culminate on February 15 along the River Po, where masked performers arrive by boat for a closing ceremony near the Murazzi riverfront.
As Carnival draws to a close, Turin’s annual chocolate festival, CioccolaTò, moves into full swing. Piazza Vittorio Veneto becomes the focal point of the event, with chocolate stalls and tastings spreading into historic palaces and cultural venues for workshops, guided tours and screenings. Long recognised as Italy’s chocolate capital, Turin traces its cocoa heritage back to the 17th century, a legacy still visible in its historic cafés and chocolatiers. Visitors can sample regional and national specialities, ride a themed vintage tram, or explore museums dedicated to the city’s signature gianduja chocolate.
Late February shifts attention to another local icon: vermouth. First codified in Turin in the late 18th century, the aromatic fortified wine remains central to the city’s aperitivo culture. In the lead-up to the Salone del Vermouth, tastings, talks and special menus appear across bars, museums and restaurants, reinforcing the city’s slower, more deliberate approach to drinking and socialising. The celebrations overlap with major wine events that introduce visitors to Piedmont’s celebrated labels without leaving the city.
Throughout the month, food binds these events together. Winter cuisine in Turin is rich, aromatic and communal, built around slow-cooked meats, garlic, wine and spices. Dishes such as bagna cauda, a hot anchovy and garlic sauce shared at the table with seasonal vegetables, reflect a culinary culture designed to warm both body and spirit. In February, Turin does not simply endure winter — it embraces it, turning cold days into one of the most rewarding times to experience the city.
