If that surprises you, consider this: Warsaw has been ranked among the world’s top vegan cities by HappyCow, a well-known vegan ranking website, for six consecutive years. In 2022, National Geographic named it the number one vegan city globally. If your impression of Poland is all about kielbasa (sausage) and conservative politics—herring and hostility—it’s time for a rethink. Over the last two decades, Poland has quietly undergone a vegan revolution.
Let me introduce you to a fairly typical neighborhood in my city. It boasts two vegan sushi spots, three vegan ramen joints, and several vegan delis. Every convenience store has a dedicated vegan section, and there’s no shortage of vegan bakeries. There’s even a place serving vegan Peking duck—trust me, it’s delicious. Many of these establishments proudly display rainbow flags. And no, I’m not talking about Los Angeles, New York, or even Copenhagen. This vibrant vegan hub is located in Śródmieście, right in the heart of Warsaw.
Historically, Polish cuisine has always been well-suited to plant-based eating. Before the country fell under communist rule, most Polish food was naturally vegetarian. Meat, fish, and dairy were largely reserved for the aristocracy, while the majority—peasants—relied on homegrown produce. Their diet featured plenty of root vegetables, potatoes, and leafy greens, making plant-based eating more of a necessity than a choice.
Traditional Polish cuisine has always included hearty soups and stews. One old favorite was a vegetable soup sweetened with sugar and cinnamon, with beer added at the end for a unique tang—though it didn’t stand the test of time. Meanwhile, Cracovian Jews crafted obwarzanki, a parboiled rye dough shaped into rings, sold from street carts—likely the inspiration for modern bagels.
During the communist era, despite the regime’s promise of equality, meat remained a luxury. Inefficient production meant limited supply, and those who could afford it often saw meat as a status symbol. Meanwhile, the socialist elite had easier access to animal products, fueling widespread desire for them. After the USSR collapsed, meat consumption surged as people gained disposable income and sought what had once been scarce.
However, as Poland evolved into a stable liberal democracy, attitudes shifted. The younger generation, having grown up in an era of abundance, didn’t romanticize meat in the same way.
“I lived in Madrid as an Erasmus student and found it difficult to maintain a social life without eating meat,” says Michał Korkosz, a leading vegetarian food influencer known as Rozkoszny. “But in Warsaw, I can’t even remember the last time I went to a restaurant that didn’t offer a vegan option.” With over 700,000 Instagram followers, Korkosz has gained widespread recognition. His cookbooks, Fresh from Poland and Polish’d, reinterpret traditional Polish dishes through a vegetarian lens, selling 230,000 copies and being translated into three languages.
Rozkoszny often highlights Poland’s historic plant-based dishes. One such dish is schabowy z kani (parasol mushroom schnitzel), a classic prepared by generations of Polish grandmothers. The mushroom is breaded, fried, and served with boiled potatoes and mizeria (Polish tzatziki). He also reinvents classics, like żurek, a traditional sour rye soup typically made with smoked pork ribs and sausage. His version swaps the meat-based broth for miso and roasted mushrooms—unconventional but now easily accessible in Poland.
Beyond his culinary influence, Rozkoszny, who studied politics and sociology, understands food as a political statement. He once interviewed Polish MPs about their diets, finding that left-leaning politicians were more likely to be vegetarian and enjoy international cuisines. A 2019 Ipsos survey supported this: 30% of left-wing politicians said they would give up meat to combat climate change, compared to just 11% of right-wing members of the Law and Justice Party.
“Veganism is often framed negatively,” says Anna Spurek, COO of the Green REV Institute, Poland’s first vegan think tank. “The meat lobby and conservative groups use it to divide society.” Some right-wing politicians even equate veganism with being anti-Polish, likening it to what they call the “LGBT agenda.” According to them, vegans are “out of touch with reality.”
Yet Spurek believes veganism can transcend politics. She sees it as an extension of solidarność (solidarity), the movement that helped end communism in Poland, applying it to environmental and interspecies concerns. In many ways, plant-based eating reconnects Poland to its agricultural roots and promotes a healthier lifestyle. Even in rural areas, plant-based diets are becoming more common.
Despite its political entanglements, veganism’s cultural influence in Poland is undeniable. Together with Barclay Bram, I co-run Bracia, a vegan Polish supper club in London. Many assume such a concept could only exist in the UK, but they’re surprised to learn how vegan-friendly Poland has become. We’ve even hosted events in Warsaw, including an upcoming takeover of Lotos, a historic restaurant dating back to 1958, traditionally known for dishes like nóżki w galarecie (chicken in gelatin). Owner Hanna Szymańska embraces the change: “You have to move with the times,” she says, eagerly preparing a special vegan menu for the night.
