For centuries, pistachios have been at the heart of life in Gaziantep, a city widely regarded as the culinary capital of the country. Even today, the prized nut—locally dubbed “green gold”—remains the defining ingredient behind its world-famous desserts, especially baklava, drawing food lovers from across the globe.
As summer wanes, bakers in Gaziantep step out of their kitchens and into pistachio orchards spread across the sunbaked plains of south-eastern Turkey. While the main harvest typically takes place in September, some of the most sought-after pistachios are handpicked nearly a month earlier. These early-season nuts, smaller in size but rich in emerald-coloured flesh, are valued for their intense flavour and are often reserved for premium sweets.
Food historian Aylin Öney Tan notes that bakery owners personally inspect orchards, tasting pistachios before purchasing entire harvests. “When the crop is nearly ready, they often buy a whole orchard’s yield on the spot,” she said, underscoring the importance of quality in Gaziantep’s culinary tradition.
The pistachio’s cultural significance goes far beyond gastronomy. According to Hatice Pekmez of Gaziantep University, sweets infused with pistachios are deeply embedded in local customs. From celebrating births with trays of syrupy baklava to mourning with semolina halva, these dishes mark key life events and strengthen social bonds.
Early mornings in Gaziantep see bakers lighting traditional ovens to prepare katmer, a flaky pastry filled with pistachios and clotted cream. At the historic Katmerci Zekeriya Usta, locals gather for breakfast, enjoying freshly baked katmer paired with milk. Owner Mehmet Özsimitçi describes it as a symbolic meal for newlyweds, believed to bring sweetness to their married life.
The city’s deep-rooted connection with pistachios dates back millennia. Archaeological findings from Oylum Höyükindicate pistachio consumption as early as the 3rd millennium BCE, reflecting a continuous culinary tradition in one of the world’s oldest inhabited regions.
Today, pistachios dominate Gaziantep’s markets and bakeries. From roasted nuts to pistachio-laden Turkish delights, the ingredient is omnipresent. The city also celebrates its heritage through the annual GastroAntep Festival, held each September, showcasing local cuisine and attracting international visitors.
Experts estimate that over 70% of Turkey’s pistachio production comes from this region, where rocky soil and intense summer heat contribute to the nut’s distinctive sweetness and vibrant green colour. Chef Mustafa Özgüler highlights that these unique growing conditions make Gaziantep pistachios superior to those cultivated elsewhere.
Among the city’s many pistachio-based delicacies, baklava remains the undisputed icon. The historic Güllüoğlu, established in 1871, is often credited with refining the dessert. Its founder, Güllü Çelebi, is said to have adapted a walnut-based baklava recipe encountered during a pilgrimage, replacing walnuts with locally abundant pistachios—a change that would redefine the region’s culinary identity.
From orchards to ovens, pistachios continue to shape Gaziantep’s economy, culture, and global reputation, ensuring that the city’s centuries-old legacy as a dessert capital remains intact.
