Italian luxury fashion house Max Mara has marked its 75th anniversary with a grand runway show in Shanghai, underscoring the growing importance of the Chinese market and the evolving preferences of the country’s luxury consumers. The event reflected a broader trend among global luxury brands that are increasingly tailoring their products and messaging to resonate with Chinese cultural identity rather than relying solely on their Western heritage.
Held at Shanghai’s Long Museum, the anniversary show blended Max Mara’s signature aesthetic with elements inspired by traditional Chinese fashion. The collection featured modern interpretations of classic Chinese design details, including standing-collar jackets, side-fastening garments, cheongsam-inspired silhouettes and decorative silk button accents. The designs sought to incorporate Chinese influences into contemporary luxury fashion while maintaining the brand’s established identity.
Ian Griffiths, Max Mara’s creative director, said the brand wanted to recognise the sophistication and diversity of urban consumers rather than viewing fashion through an exclusively Western lens. According to Griffiths, the company undertook extensive consultations while developing the collection to ensure that the cultural references were respectful and authentic, avoiding the pitfalls of stereotyping or cultural appropriation.
Max Mara’s ties with China stretch back more than three decades. The company was among the early Western luxury brands to establish a strong presence in the country and today operates numerous boutiques across major Chinese cities, including a significant footprint in Shanghai. Over the years, the label has developed a reputation among Chinese consumers as a symbol of professional success, social standing and understated elegance.
The anniversary celebration comes at a time when luxury spending in China is showing signs of recovery after a slowdown in the years following the Covid-19 pandemic. Industry observers note that Chinese consumers continue to account for a substantial share of global luxury purchases, making the market critical for international fashion houses seeking growth.
However, consumer attitudes in China have changed significantly in recent years. A growing movement known as “guochao,” or “national wave,” has encouraged shoppers to embrace products and styles that reflect local culture and identity. The trend is particularly popular among younger consumers who increasingly favour brands that demonstrate a genuine understanding of Chinese traditions and contemporary aspirations.
Recognising this shift, Max Mara’s Shanghai show prominently featured local models and celebrated themes linked to confidence, ambition and empowerment. Among the high-profile attendees was Chinese-American Olympic skiing champion Eileen Gu, a figure widely admired by young Chinese consumers.
The brand has also sought to align itself with broader cultural conversations in China. Recently, it collaborated with a Chinese production of the acclaimed play “Prima Facie,” a work that explores issues of gender, justice and empowerment. Such initiatives reflect Max Mara’s effort to connect with audiences beyond fashion through cultural engagement.
While camel-coloured coats remain central to the brand’s identity, the anniversary collection also showcased bold red tones, a colour traditionally associated with happiness, luck and celebration in Chinese culture. Griffiths emphasised that modern fashion is less about dictating trends and more about enabling personal expression, reflecting the increasingly individualistic outlook of today’s consumers.
The Shanghai showcase highlighted how global luxury brands are adapting to a new era in which success in China depends not only on prestige and heritage but also on cultural understanding, authenticity and meaningful engagement with local consumers.
