A long-running dispute over bus services to Machu Picchu, Peru’s most iconic tourist attraction and a Unesco World Heritage site, has escalated into a major local crisis, leaving more than 1,400 tourists stranded in recent months. The conflict stems from a contentious change in the licence for the buses that ferry thousands of visitors daily from the town of Aguas Calientes up to the historic Inca citadel.
For three decades, bus company Consettur has operated the short but essential 20-minute route, carrying around 4,500 passengers every day. With the only alternative being a steep two-hour hike, the service has long been seen as a vital link for international and domestic tourists arriving by train into Aguas Calientes. Despite this reliability, head of operations Cristian Alberto Caballero Chacón acknowledges that recent months have been marked by “conflicts between people from different communities”.
The flashpoint began in September when Consettur’s licence was due to be replaced by a newer operator, San Antonio de Torontoy. The decision angered many local residents, who said the bidding process lacked transparency. Protests soon erupted, with demonstrators blocking the railway line to Aguas Calientes with rocks, prompting the government to send special trains to evacuate stranded visitors. Several locals, speaking anonymously, argued that Consettur’s long-standing position as sole operator made the service lucrative and that transferring control to another company without adequate consultation was unacceptable. A round trip on the bus costs $24 for foreigners and $15 for Peruvians.
Although Consettur’s licence expired in September, the company continues to run its buses while legal challenges stall San Antonio de Torontoy’s takeover. Caballero insists Consettur is not a monopoly, emphasising that it is a consortium of 12 companies, including the local district council, which holds a 38% stake. San Antonio de Torontoy, meanwhile, is based further away in the wider Urubamba Province, adding another layer of rivalry between local communities.
As legal proceedings drag on, frustrations extend beyond the bus dispute. Tourists have increasingly voiced concerns about the high cost of reaching Machu Picchu. Australian visitor Annalise Jaksic expressed surprise that train fares—which range from $140 to $2,000 for a round trip—do not include transport to the archaeological site itself. Her friend Todd Carland said that even purchasing the $57 entry ticket without a tour guide was an ordeal, adding to the overall difficulty of navigating the system.
Local leadership also laments financial imbalances. Elvis La Torre, mayor of Aguas Calientes, criticised the Ministry of Culture for retaining 90% of ticket revenues, leaving only a small share for local development. He argued that more funds should remain in the community to improve infrastructure and support the tourism-dependent population. Street vendors like Dina Huillca echoed these concerns, highlighting the lack of basic services, including running water, adequate schools and healthcare.
Amid the tension, regional tourism leaders are calling for sweeping reforms. Carlos González, president of the Cusco tourism chamber, said Peru urgently needs unified oversight of transport and visitor management. He advocates for updated laws allowing the vice ministry of tourism greater control over national travel resources, and for transforming the Machu Picchu experience by creating designated spaces for different types of visitors, from spiritual travellers to social-media-driven younger tourists. However, he warned that the country’s political instability—marked by six presidents in six years—continues to obstruct meaningful change.
Back in Aguas Calientes, Caballero says Consettur is open to sharing the route if San Antonio de Torontoy receives final approval. “We won’t stop them,” he said, as the region waits for a resolution that could reshape one of Peru’s most important tourism lifelines.
