The legendary route to Machu Picchu is among the world’s most breathtaking treks, but it is also fraught with controversies that travelers can navigate with careful choices.
Rising to 2,840 meters above sea level, the trail starts from the Urubamba River in Cusco’s Sacred Valley and climbs through Andean cloud forests, reaching the notorious Warmiwañusca or “Dead Woman’s Pass” at 4,215 meters before descending to the iconic Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail, South America’s most renowned hike, attracts thousands of adventurers each year. To preserve the historic path, built by Inca engineers over six centuries ago, the Peruvian government strictly limits permits to about 200 tourists per day, with passes selling out rapidly.
Despite its popularity, the trek is frequently disrupted by protests from porters demanding better working conditions. The Porters’ Voice Collective, an organization advocating for Inca Trail workers, highlighted their struggles in a 2024 documentary, exposing the lack of enforcement of labor laws meant to protect porters.
Mules are banned on the Inca Trail to protect its ancient stone paths, so porters are hired to carry camping gear. Their grueling workdays begin at 5:00 AM and often extend past 10:00 PM. While a 2022 law mandates a minimum wage of s/650 ($176) for the four-day trek, many trekking companies pay as little as s/350 ($95) and ignore the legal weight limit of 20kg per porter. Male porters often carry up to 40kg, leading to severe knee and back injuries. Female porters, legally restricted to 15kg, are frequently forced to carry up to 30kg. Some companies bypass regulations by bribing checkpoint officials or rerouting gear before inspections.
Porters also endure poor working conditions, including dehydration from drinking unclean water while trekkers receive filtered supplies. Many continue working despite injuries, with some resorting to alcohol to cope with untreated pain.
For travelers seeking a more ethical trekking experience, local guides recommend alternative routes such as the Lares Trek, which offers cultural immersion in Indigenous communities, or the Salkantay Trek, which provides lodge accommodations and allows mule support. Additionally, companies with more female porters tend to uphold better labor conditions. Tourists requesting women porters may also find themselves trekking with healthier, better-supported teams.
By making informed choices, visitors can experience the majesty of Machu Picchu while supporting fair treatment of the workers who make the journey possible.
