As West Bengal prepares for its largest celebration, Durga Puja, Indians in the state may face a shortage of hilsa, their beloved fish. This is due to Bangladesh intensifying its enforcement of a ban on hilsa exports to India, a measure aimed at making the prized fish more available to its own citizens. According to Farida Akhter, an adviser to Bangladesh’s Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock, the crackdown ensures hilsa remains accessible to Bangladeshi consumers, especially during this period.
Despite previous governments lifting the ban temporarily during Durga Puja as a goodwill gesture, this year the new administration, formed after Sheikh Hasina’s ouster in August, is unlikely to follow suit. Ms. Akhter emphasized that while Bangladesh values its relationship with India, domestic supply takes precedence, particularly because hilsa is too costly for many Bangladeshis.
Sheikh Hasina’s administration had previously engaged in “hilsa diplomacy,” gifting the fish to Indian leaders like West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee and former President Pranab Mukherjee in efforts to ease political tensions, including a water-sharing dispute. However, Hasina’s dramatic removal from office after student-led protests has altered the political landscape. Her continued presence in India has added complexity to Delhi’s relationship with the new interim government in Dhaka, straining diplomatic ties at a critical time.
Bangladesh is the world’s leading producer of hilsa, a species found abundantly in the Bay of Bengal and its rivers. Hilsa contributes significantly to the country’s economy, accounting for about 12% of total fish production and 1% of GDP. In previous years, Bangladesh allowed 3,000 to 5,000 tonnes of hilsa to be exported to India during Durga Puja. This year, however, a scarcity of fish has prompted the government to enforce a stricter ban.
Despite the export ban, hilsa prices in Bangladesh have risen sharply, with traders attributing the increase to poor catches and rough seas. A 1.5kg hilsa is now selling for around 1,800 taka ($15), a price 150-200 taka higher than last year.
For Bengalis on both sides of the border, hilsa holds a near-sacred status, celebrated for its delicate flavor and versatility in cooking. It is often steamed with mustard paste or fried with spices, making it a culinary icon. The scarcity of the fish during Durga Puja will undoubtedly frustrate many, as hilsa is deeply intertwined with Bengali culture and cuisine.
